Are you having trouble with your Maytag refrigerator not cooling? It is because of a clogged condenser coil, damaged compressor, blocked airflow or malfunctioning thermostat.
You should clean the dirty condenser coil at the back of your Maytag refrigerator if it isn’t cooling.
The refrigerator’s condenser coil converts hot air outside into cold air inside. Any obstruction will prevent your refrigerator from cooling down correctly.
Key Takeaways
Expert Guide
Maytag Refrigerator Not Cooling: Common Reasons and Fixes
Several reasons can lead to the Maytag refrigerator not cooling.
1. Evaporator Fan Failure
The evaporator fan ensures that the compartment’s cold air reaches every side. As a result, your food will cool evenly and no hot spots will form inside the compartment.
Evaporator fans, however, can malfunction in several ways. A buildup of ice and frost will stop the fan blades from rotating. This will keep the refrigerator heated by preventing it from producing cool airflow.
The fan blades may sustain harm and separate, resulting in the same result.
If an evaporator fan has an electrical malfunction, its motor may short out or wear out if it is old. At that point, the refrigerator will deliver power to the fan, but won’t spin.
There are two ways to deal with the failure of one or more evaporator fans. To remove any ice accumulation that keeps the impacted fan from rotating, you must first thaw the compartment.
Turn off the refrigerator and leave the door open to allow it to thaw naturally. Avoid using a hair dryer or heat gun since the concentrated heat will harm the refrigerator’s plastic panels.
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2. Electronic Control Board Issue
A faulty electrical control board can cause a refrigerator to malfunction in several ways, such as losing electricity or cooling or leaking water.
The reason for this is that the board acts as the refrigerator’s brain, managing vital activities like controlling the ice maker, running fans, managing defrost cycles, controlling dispenser functions, and regulating internal temperatures.
A malfunctioning electronic control board might interfere with communication between a lot of various parts, including automatic doors if they are installed.
The refrigerator may make a clicking or chattering sound and smell like it’s burning due to a faulty board.
Replacing the damaged component—whether it be a malfunctioning fan motor or a broken fan blade—is the second option. These sections are irreparable, so a complete replacement is the solution.
Replacing the electronic control board is the best solution. Follow these steps to replace it.
- Cut off the electricity.
- Take off the electronic control board’s cover.
- Unplug the cables.
- Take out the electronic control board.
- Put the new electronic control board in place.
- Put the cover back on.
- Connect the water and turn on the electricity again.
Doing appliance repairs might be dangerous. Follow all directions and make use of the appropriate tools and safety gear listed in the guide. Don’t move further until you are certain that you comprehend every step and can finish the fix. Only a qualified technician should do certain repairs.
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3. Disable the “Demo” or “Showroom” modes.
Another possibility is that your Maytag refrigerator is in perfect working order.
A certain mode known as “Showroom” or “Demo” mode is the cause of it not cooling or freezing. And, as the name implies, it is used while refrigerators are still on display.
When you open a refrigerator in this setting, the lights inside turn on. However, it has all of its other features (including cooling) turned off.
The term “Showroom” appears on the display panel when it is turned on. It is typically located on the right, above the words “order” and “replace.” Once more, this setting may be inadvertently enabled.
Here’s what to do if you notice that your device is in “Demo” mode.
How to disable it:
Each model will require a different approach. However, the majority of units follow a similar general procedure. Just simultaneously press and hold the button or buttons below for approximately three seconds.
- MRT711S: “Temp.”
- MFI2570FE: “Light” + “Power Cold.”
- MFI2269F: “Refrigerator Cooling Off.”
- MFW2055F: “Fridge Temp” + “Freezer Temp.”
- MFF2055F: “Power Cold” + “Moisture Control.”
- MFT2776FE / MFX2676FR / MSC21C6MF / MSS26C6M:
“Options” + “Water Filter.”
After that, watch for the word “Showroom” to vanish.
4. Malfunctioning Defrost Thermostat
When diagnosing a non-cooling refrigerator, look for ice or frost accumulation, particularly in the freezer section, as these frequently point to a defrosting problem.
To ensure effective cooling, your refrigerator is built to automatically defrost several times during the day, melting ice around the evaporator coils.
By monitoring the temperature around the evaporator and supplying electricity to the defrost heater to remove frost, the defrost thermostat plays a crucial part.
Faulty thermostats can either fail to activate, causing ice to build up around the coils and ultimately preventing adequate cooling, or they can leave the heater on for an extended time, preventing cooling.
You need to use a common multimeter to verify if the defrost thermostat is broken. If there is electrical continuity, the thermostat is still operational, as indicated by the meter.
If not, replacing the thermostat with a new one is your only option. Your refrigerator will be able to properly defrost and start cooling again as a result. Your refrigerator will eventually reach the desired temperature.
Related Article: Maytag Refrigerator Not Cooling: 6 Causes with Effective Troubleshooting
5. Problem with the Sealed System
The refrigerator may have a restriction or leak in the refrigeration system if all the parts appear to be functioning properly but the cooling is not occurring. You must take off the evaporator lid and look at the coil’s frost pattern to ascertain this.
Note: The condenser coil should be clean and have adequate airflow, and the compressor, condenser, and evaporator fans should all be operating. Most of the coil should be lightly frosty.
If there is simply one area of the coil covered in frost or ice, there is probably a systemic obstruction or leak. An experienced technician should identify and fix this costly (perhaps prohibitive) problem.
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6. Unclean condenser coils
Your refrigerator’s condenser coils may accumulate dust, grime, and other debris over time.
These coils are often found on the rear or bottom of your refrigerator, and dust or pet hair can clog them.
Blocked coils can hinder the escape of heat from your refrigerator and may result in the compressor exerting more effort than necessary.
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If your home has a lot of pet traffic or the area surrounding your refrigerator is especially dusty or oily, it is advised that you clean your coils every two to three months to help avoid this issue.
FAQs Of Maytag Refrigerator Not Cooling
What is preventing my Maytag refrigerator from cooling down?
A damaged evaporator, a malfunctioning electronic control board, or a locked compressor are the most frequent causes of your Maytag refrigerator’s inability to chill.
How can I activate the Maytag refrigerator’s cooling feature?
To restart cooling on the majority of these machines, press and hold LOCK and MEASURED FILL for three seconds.
How can I restart the refrigerator compressor?
Unplug the refrigerator.
Using the control panel, turn off the freezer and refrigerator.
Reset the temperature in your refrigerator and freezer.
Await the temperature stabilization in the refrigerator.
What symptoms indicate a refrigerator compressor failure?
Your refrigerator never stops running.
The refrigerator isn’t sufficiently cool.
Strange noises.
